Hong Kong's dynamism isunforgettable. From the vantage
point of Victoria Peak, overlooking the world's busiest
deepwater port, you can see a city geared not only to
making money but feeling good about it. At night, it's
like looking down into a volcano. Despite its British
colonial past, Hong Kong has always stuck to its roots
and the culture beneath the glitz is pure Chinese. That
didn't stop locals from feeling apprehensive about being
re-united with the motherland when the British handed
the colony back to China in 1997, but their unease has
largely evaporated. Visitors often find it takes a few
days in Hong Kong to get accustomed to the whirlwind
pace. If you need some respite, check out the Outlying
Islands for a change of tempo and scene.
Hong Kong is divided into four main areas - Kowloon,
Hong Kong Island, the New Territories and the Outlying
Islands. Kowloon and the New Territories are on a peninsula
of the Chinese mainland, on the northern side of Victoria
Harbour; Hong Kong Island is on the southern side of
the harbour facing Kowloon; the Outlying Islands simply
refers to any of the other 234 islands. The New Territories
has a 20km (12mi) land border with China proper.
When to Go
Many prefer to visit Hong Kong during November and December
when there are pleasant breezes, plenty of sunshine
and comfortable temperatures. January and February are
okay months, but the temperature can drop to below 10°C
(50°F). Warmer temperatures make March and April
pleasant months to go, but as the year progresses into
May the air becomes uncomfortably sticky and humid,
and by September you can expect typhoons. Hotels tend
to offer substantial discounts outside the high seasons
of March-April and October-November. Travel can be difficult
during Chinese New Year, late January/early February.
Places to Visit
Hong Kong Island
Hong Kong Island is the glitzy big
brother of Kowloon - a tightly packed, towering paean
to market capitalism that hasn't been dented one jot
by Chinese rule. The bustle of people living and working
is the biggest attraction on the island, although many
visitors head around to Aberdeen, on the southern side
of the island, where 6000 people live or work on junks
anchored in the harbour. Sampan tours of the Aberdeen
Harbour are definitely worth the expense. The other
major draw is the floating restaurants.
The most popular beach is Repulse Bay, also on the southern
side of the island, but it gets extremely crowded on
weekends. City attractions include the Central Market,
which visitors will have no trouble finding (just sniff
the air), the old Man Mo Temple and the Zoological &
Botanic Gardens. Hong Kong Island is steep, so if your'e
heading away from the harbour, do as the locals do and
ride the 800m (870 yards) outdoor escalator.
Kowloon
Tsim
Sha Tsui, at the tip of the Kowloon Peninsula, is the
territory's tourist ghetto. It consists of one sq km
of shops, restaurants, pubs, topless bars and camera
stores. However, Kowloon is also home to the Hong Kong
Cultural Centre, the Space Museum, the famous Peninsula
Hotel and the Museum of History. The Promenade, in East
Tsim Sha Tsui, is a great place for a stroll, and has
wonderful views of Victoria Harbour, particularly at
night. The liveliest night market in the territory is
on Temple St in Yau Ma Tei.
Victoria Peak
If you're in Hong Kong, you'd be mad
to miss a trip to the top of Victoria Peak, 552m (1810ft)
above sea level. The views are extraordinarily beautiful
in every direction, with the vista of the business district,
Victoria Harbour and Kowloon especially grand. In true
Hong Kong style the main viewing deck is on the roof of
a large shopping mall (no bargains here). Join the throng
of snap-happy tourists - you won't be disappointed. If
you have time, it's worth making the trip to the top both
in daylight (ideal to get your bearings) and at night,
when the mass of lights around the harbour will take your
breath away and make you wish you had a better camera.
The actual peak is a 10-minute walk west and up. To get
to and from the Peak, travel at least one way on the Peak
tram. Buses also ply the route from the Star Ferry pier.